CLICKER TRAINING
This is an effective and increasingly popular tool in modern dog training. It is based totally on positive reinforcement and therefore creates enthusiasm and great motivation when used properly.
The clicker is a small plastic box with a metal thumb sized strip which when pushed creates a unique ‘clicking’ sound. There is nothing special or magical about the clicker itself except that the sound it makes is unique and clear to the dog as well as being consistent, unlike spoken words which can vary in pronunciation depending on the trainer’s mood.
Using a clear consistent sound when training to pinpoint specific correct behaviours makes it easy for the dog to pick up exactly what is wanted and repeat it over again.
Timing is crucial. The click must come at the very moment the dog performs the desired behaviour e.g. If teaching your dog to sit, the click must be heard at the moment his bottom touches the floor and not a second later. The dog may sit and then turn his head or lift a paw and if the click is late he will think that you are clicking for one of these other behaviours!
The clicker can only be used once it has been ‘paired’ with what is called a primary reinforcer. This is something that the dog finds naturally rewarding e.g. food.
The scientist Pavlov discovered that if he rang a bell every time he fed his dog, very soon the dog would expect food when he heard the bell without even seeing or smelling food. Furthermore he began to drool or ‘salivate’ on hearing the bell. He had made a connection in his brain which paired the sound of the bell with eating food and formed a biological response.
This process is called ‘classical conditioning’.
Clicker training is based on this very idea. The trainer ‘pairs’ the clicker with food / treats to create a dog who desperately wants to hear a click!
The trainer then teaches the dog that to make her click he must perform the correct behaviour. This part of the process is called ‘Operant conditioning’. This is so much better than conventional training because the dog is trying to please the trainer instead of the trainer having to pull or push a bored dog in to position!
HOW TO DO IT!
If your dog is prone to gaining weight use his dinner or, if using treats, cut down on his dinner later. Either way this will be more effective if he is hungry and the food is really tasty!
Put the treats in your pocket or in a bowl but make sure your dog can’t mug you for them!
Simply give your dog a treat and at that very moment ‘click’. There is no need to say anything, the clicker is the only sound the dog needs to hear. Repeat this over and over for several short sessions between 5 and 10 minutes long.
After several sessions look for signs that the dog has made the connection in his mind between the sound of the clicker and getting a treat. This may be that he looks excitedly at the clicker instead of the treats waiting for the sound, or from the clicker to the bowl. It may be useful to move away from the bowl a few paces and see if he stays with the bowl or comes toward you and the clicker. He should also look up excitedly when you click as if he knows food is coming!
OPERANT CONDITIONING USING THE CLICKER
The next step of the process is to teach the dog that he can actually make you click by performing certain actions. This is where the real fun starts!
Instead of trying to push or pull your bored dog in to doing things, he will actually start to offer you behaviours in an attempt to make you click! My dog shakes with anticipation and almost can’t wait for my instruction to sit, bow, lay down, spin, shut doors for me, bring my shoes and various other tasks. He just loves it and can’t stop wagging his whole body! It lights me up to see him so happy and full of life.
When your dog is doing one task really well you can add in a verbal command. E.g. you have clicked when he sits nicely and now he is sitting nicely regularly for a click. Now start to say ‘Sit’ every time he puts his bottom on the floor followed instantly by the click. Decide how you will say ‘sit’ and say it the same each time so that he gets used to the word and recognizes it easily. Dogs are very sensitive to pitch and tone in our voices.
After several sessions try saying Sit and be ready to click if your dog responds in the right way. Then try doing it when your dog doesn’t know you have the clicker e.g. when you go to make a cup of tea rather than in a training session but have the clicker and a treat in your pocket ready! This way you will know if he really understands the word ‘sit’.
If your dog does it straight away give him lots of praise too! Try to praise in a high voice (and scold him in a low voice) he will understand this way of communicating.
You can teach all sorts of behaviours using this method. Just remember to be patient. Try the game with a friend first, get them to think of something you must do but not tell you then click when you get nearer and nearer to doing the behaviour they want until you know what to do. This is a very valuable exercise to do before you are let loose on your dog with the clicker as it makes you understand how hard it is for him to guess what you want and helps you get it right.
Clicker training is brilliant for teaching tricks or difficult tasks. Remember training should be fun for both you and your dog and help build a bond between you. If you start to get annoyed or frustrated STOP! This will make your dog want to avoid training sessions and seriously impede future attempts.
VITAL RULES!
If you click you MUST treat. Even if you click by mistake. The click must mean ‘treat’ to your dog or the connection will start to break down. This is why you must practice your timing and use of the clicker before starting with your dog.
NEVER use the clicker to call your dog. The correct behaviour MUST come first and the clicker is used to MARK that behaviour.
Good luck and happy clicking!!
If you would like any further help on clicker training please email: paws.4@hotmail.co.uk
There are also some good books on the market containing clicker training chapters.
About Me
- Dog Trainer
- Norfolk, United Kingdom
- Following a very animal orientated childhood I finished school and went on to do a National Diploma in Animal Management with the idea of going in to vet nursing. However, during the course I became more fascinated with animal psychology and after completing I applied to do a Degree in Applied Animal Behaviour and Training, graduating 2006. In 2008 I went on to do an Advanced diploma in Companion Animal Behaviour Therapy with COAPE and became an member of the CAPBT (COAPE Association of Pet Behaviourists & Trainers). I have owned a variety of animals from rodents, birds, guinea pigs and rabbits, to cats, dogs, goats and horses. I also have experience with some reptiles and other exotics through college courses.
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Thursday, 20 December 2007
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